Germany

Got a lift in Hermann´s van to a train station near Munich. Loaded the bike on the train and made it to Wurzburg a few hours later. Spent 2 nights in Wurzburg, one at an underground basement party with Lenny Holderhead and a whole lot of Germans that I didn´t know. Rode my bike from Wurzburg to Volcach the next day along the river Main for about 60kms, shaking my head at the decision to wear tight jeans. It drizzled rain most of the way, glad I had my new gloves though. Spent 3 nights in Volcach, a small village situated amongst vineyards on the river. Lenny showed me the vineyard he has been working on and gave me a tour of the wine cellar, where the magic happens. Had a taste of almost every wine that they produced and enjoyed the peace and quiet of German village life. Jumped back on the bike a few days later and rode into Bamberg, with autumn leaves falling all around me. A pretty city Bamberg. Found myself staying in a retirement village near a park for a good price. Each morning I shared breakfast with people who were around when Hitler was first manicuring ´that moustache´.

Austria

Timed my arrival in Austria to perfection, with the first falls of snow welcoming me to this lush, visually stunning country. A week earlier I was riding my bike in 25 degree heat - it has been a trip of extremes. Stayed with Hermann and Marion near Salzburg for 2 nights and they gave me the 'Austrian experience'. They live in the lakes district of Austria, surrounded by huge mountains and green fields. I have made the transition from Pizza and Pasta to Wienner Schnitzel and Milka chocolate very quickly, a welcome change of diet.

Venice

I felt like I really should go to Venice if I was in the north of Italy, so I did. It was exactly what I expected; heaps of tourists, lots of water and extremely overpriced. Take away all the people and the souvenir shops and I would have found it a lot more enjoyable. A beautiful looking city all the same, but not great for the lone traveller (especially with a bike - which are banned in Venice). Stayed a night and jumped on a train to Austria the next day.

San Marco in Lamis with the Villani family

After about 5 days of dragging my bike on and off trains through southern Italy and then a gruelling 10km mountain climb, I arrived in San Marco in Lamis - home of the Villani family. Carolyn's grandparents, Luigi and Carolina, were from this town before migrating to Australia. I was welcomed with open arms by the family, despite my lack of Italian and their lack of English. I stayed in Luigi's brother Michelino's house in the centre of town. The Villani girls took me on a drive throughout the Gargano Promontory, a beautiful part of Apulia where the forests meet the Adriatic sea. And there is actual sand on the beaches, rather than the rocks that dominate the western Mediterranean coast. I also visited many churches and the monastery of Padre Pio. I was spoilt for 3 days and although it was difficult to converse, I probably learnt more Italian in those 3 days than I had for the previous 10 weeks.

Sicily

After 3 slow, but windy days in Stromboli where I spent a lot of time walking around wondering what to do with myself, I caught a ferry to Millazzo in Sicily. Booked myself into a hotel near the port and made sure the TV there was showing the AFL Grand Final the following morning. Glad I got up and watched every second of it, shame about the Cats winning though, I have a soft spot for the Saints. It was the first time I have watched a football match in a foreign language before. The names Montagna and Dal Santo rolled off the commentator's tongues beautifully. The rest of the time I was not sure what they were talking about. Caught a train to Palermo later that day and stayed in a hostel situated in the loudest street in Sicily. It was a case of "if you can't beat them, join them", so I spent those 3 nights staying up to the wee hours trying to enjoy what Palermo's nightlife had to offer. I won't be waiting 30 minutes for a terrible Mojito again, that's for sure. A dirty but interesting city, Palermo had a lot of similarities to Naples. I also would like to spend some more time in Sicily's capital. Had a hankering for a physical challenge so I decided to do some riding in central Sicily. Quite a mountainous place Sicily, had my work cut out for 3 days before catching a bus to Siracusa. Nice spot, as was Taormina.

The villages south of Messina were devastated recently by a mudslide that took many lives. The mudslide stood inbetween me and my boat out of Sicily, so unfortunately, I had to ride through them. Police forced me onto the beach with my bike and I had to carry the bike and bags 5kms through the mud, sand and sea until I found a path suitable to ride on. Probably the worst day with my bike so far this trip, with the beaches filled with mud, rubbish and dead animals. I had plenty of time to spare some thoughts for the people of the affected villages though. At one point, some men cleaning up the mess in the streets stopped me with my bike and made me eat one of their beef rolls and finish one of their beers. I must have looked like I needed it! I accepted their offer with gratitude and eventually caught my ferry back to mainland Italy.