Cycling the Danube

Last week a good friend of mine, Chris, joined me on a 3 day cycling trip on the Danube River in Austria, from Linz to Vienna (about 230kms). We arrived on a Friday to the hottest day of the year in Linz, with the temperature topping 39 deg celcius. Thankfully we had no riding to do that day. We instead settled into the largest beer garden in upper Austria (according to the proud tourist officer) and sampled some local produce.

Day 1 was an 80km ride in coolish conditions from Linz to Ybbs. A lot of the day was not spent riding on the actual Danube but inland, detouring through endless fields of corn. I had no idea so much corn was grown in Austria. It was a nice, scenic ride, but we were expecting a lot more time spent cycling beside the river. The rain was threatening for most of the day and finally came crashing down while we were luckily safe and warm in a cave-like bar in Ybbs. We decided then and there that our cycling was over for the day.

Day 2 was the big ride, as we had to make up some ground after rain forced an early finish the day before. It was the best day of the 3 with perfect weather, the Danube always in view and quaint villages along the way to explore, many with large beer gardens. From Spitz to Krems was particularly beautiful with the villages surrounded by vineyards and dramatic mountainous backdrops. Coincidentally and gladly we bumped into the parents of a friend of ours near picturesque Melk. We covered about 100kms and even had time for a quick dip in the Danube. We eventually found a room in a hostel in Tulln around 8pm, and then quickly found some bratvursts and Steigl.

Day 3 was a gentle 50km ride into Vienna, not as scenic as the previous day, but we did share a modest sense of achievement as we stood in the centre of the city with our bikes and panniers. A Vienna Schnitzel, apple strudel and a nap in the park concluded the trip before Chris and I flew our separate ways. It was a lovely 4 days in Austria that has triggered a strong desire to continue the Danube ride from Vienna to Budapest. Maybe next August over 7 days, so we can linger in those gorgeous beer gardens a little longer...